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Why Louis Vuitton Couldn’t Sell Shoes in India: The BIS Certification Barrier
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Why Louis Vuitton Couldn't Sell Shoes in India: The BIS Certification Barrier

Luxury brands like Louis Vuitton, Dior and Christian Louboutin face a hurdle in entering the Indian footwear market due to stringent regulatory requirements, such as BIS certification for footwear. Despite this challenge, there are opportunities for brands to adapt and thrive by prioritizing compliance and innovation. Let's explore how brands can navigate regulatory barriers and seize opportunities for growth in India.

Set back of Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton encountered difficulties in entering the Indian footwear market as it was unable to obtain a Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) Certificate within the stipulated timeframe of the quality control orders. Louis Vuitton's failure to secure the necessary certification within the designated period hindered its ability to comply with regulatory requirements, leading to challenges in selling its goods and establishing a foothold in the Indian market.

Government Stance and Industry Response

While luxury brands like Louis Vuitton have urged the Indian government for relief from stringent BIS certification requirements, their requests have been rejected. The government's stance emphasizes the importance of adhering to Indian standards, regardless of a brand's global reputation or manufacturing processes.

Quality Control Orders (QCOs) Released

  • 1. Footwear made from all-Rubber and all Polymeric material and its components (Quality Control) Order, 2022
  • 2. Footwear made from Leather and other materials (Quality Control) Order, 2022
  • 3.Personal Protective Equipment – Footwear (Quality Control) Order, 2020

Footwear made from all-Rubber and all Polymeric material and its components (Quality Control) Order, 2022

Effective from July 1, 2023
Sr. No. Goods or Articles Indian Standard Title of Indian Standard
01.
Industrial and protective rubber knee and ankle boots
IS 5557: 2004
Industrial and protective rubber knee and ankle boots - Specification
02.
All rubber gum boots and ankle boots
IS 5557 (Part 2): 2018
All rubber gum boots and ankle boots: Part 2 occupational purposes
03.
Moulded solid rubber soles and heels
IS 5676: 1995
Moulded solid rubber soles and heels Specification
04.
Rubber microcellular sheets for soles and heels
IS 6664: 1992
Rubber microcellular sheets for soles and heels- Specification
05.
Solid PVC soles and heels
IS 6719: 1972
Specification for solid PVC soles and heels
06.
PVC sandal
IS 6721: 1972
Specification for PVC sandal
07.
Rubber Hawai Chappal
IS 10702: 1992
Rubber Hawai Chappal- Specification
08.
Slipper, rubber
IS 11544: 1986
Specification for slipper, rubber
09.
Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) industrial boots
IS 12254: 1993
Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) industrial boots - Specification
10.
Polyurethane sole, semirigid
IS 13893: 1994
Polyurethane sole, semirigid Specification
11.
Unlined moulded rubber boots
IS 13995: 1995
Unlined moulded rubber boots – Specification
12.
Moulded plastics footwear
IS 16645: 2018
Moulded plastics footwear- Lined or Unlined polyurethane boots for general industrial use- Specification
13.
Footwear for men and women for municipal scavenging work
IS 16994: 2018
Footwear for men and women for municipal scavenging work

Footwear Made from Leather and Other Materials (Quality Control) Order, 2022

Effective from July 1, 2023
Sr. No. Goods or Articles Indian Standard Title of Indian Standard
01.
Leather safety boots and shoes
IS 1989 (Part 1): 1986 IS 1989 (Part 2):
Specification for leather safety boots and shoes Part 1 for miners.
IS 1989 (Part 2): 1986
Specification for leather safety boots and shoes Part 2 for heavy metal industries
02.
Canvas Shoes Rubber Sole
IS 3735: 1996
Canvas Shoes, Rubber Sole- Specification
03.
Canvas Boots Rubber Sole
IS 3736: 1995
Canvas Boots, Rubber Sole- Specification
04.
Safety Rubber Canvas Boots for Miners
IS 3976: 2018
Safety Rubber Canvas Boots for Miners Specification
05.
Leather safety footwear
IS 11226: 1993
Leather safety footwear having direct moulded rubber sole- Specification
06.
Leather safety footwear with direct moulded polyvinyl chloride (PVC) sole
IS 14544: 1998
Leather safety footwear with direct moulded polyvinyl chloride (PVC) sole – Specification
07.
Sports footwear
IS 15844: 2010
Sports Footwear- Specification
08.
High ankle tactical boots with PU - Rubber sole
IS 17012: 2018
High ankle tactical boots with PU - Rubber Sole – Specification
09.
Anti riot shoes
IS 17037: 2018
Anti riot shoes – Specification
10.
Derby shoes
IS 17043: 2018
Derby shoes – Specification

Personal Protective Equipment-Footwear (Quality Control) Order, 2020

Effective from January 1, 2022
Indian Standard Title of Indian Standard
IS 15298 (Part 2): 2016
Personal protective equipment - Part 2 Safety Footwear
IS 15298 (Part 3): 2019
Personal protective equipment - Part 3 Protective Footwear
IS 15298 (Part 4): 2017
Personal protective equipment - Part 4 Occupational Footwear

Policy Objectives

The BIS certification regulations align with the government's broader objectives of promoting domestic manufacturing i.e., Make in India, and ensuring consumer safety. Union Minister for Commerce and Consumer Affairs, Piyush Goyal, has underscored the significance of adhering to BIS standards to enhance product quality and promoting domestic manufacturing.

Opportunity for Indian manufacturers

The implementation of quality control standards for footwear in India presents Indian manufacturers with a significant opportunity. By meeting these standards, they can compete effectively with luxury brands and promote domestic production. With the right support, achieving BIS certification is not difficult. With proper assistance and guidance, manufacturers can streamline their processes and ensure compliance, ultimately enhancing product quality and market competitiveness. With the right support, Indian manufacturers can successfully achieve BIS certification and elevate their standing in the footwear industry.

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